Wiring Basics for Mag-Locks and Electronic Props

You do not need to be an electrician to wire mag-locks and props safely, but you do need a clear plan, the right power supply, and basic testing tools.
Most escape room wiring problems come from three things: wrong voltage, weak power supplies, or bad connections.
Use low voltage DC (usually 12 V or 24 V), clear labeling, and simple trigger logic so you can repair things fast on a busy weekend.
Build one small test rig on your bench before you wire anything in a room. It saves time, money, and headaches later.

Wiring mag-locks and electronic props in an escape room comes down to a few simple habits: match voltage and polarity, separate power from triggers, and test every piece before it touches a wall. If you can read a power label, use a screwdriver, and handle a basic multimeter, you can wire most commercial mag-locks, relay boards, and puzzle circuits in a safe and repeatable way.

Why wiring feels scary (and why it does not have to be)

I talk to a lot of escape room owners who whisper the same thing: “I am fine planning puzzles, but the wires freak me out.”

I get it. Electricity sounds abstract, and the tech side moves fast. But mag-lock and prop wiring in escape rooms is actually pretty boring once you strip away the jargon. That is good news. Boring means repeatable.

Good wiring is not about genius. It is about following the same simple pattern every single time, even when you are tired and the next team walks in 30 minutes.

Here is the rough pattern you use over and over:

Choose the right power supply (voltage and current)
Run power to your load (mag-lock, prop, LEDs, etc.)
Use a relay or controller to switch that power on and off
Trigger that relay with a puzzle or sensor
Label and test everything

Once you see that pattern, most vendor diagrams start to make more sense. And if they do not, you will at least know what questions to ask.

Low-voltage basics for escape rooms

Common voltages you will see

Almost every escape room build runs on low voltage DC. That is good, because it is safer to handle and easier to power from central supplies.

Voltage	Where you see it	Typical use in rooms
5 V DC	Microcontrollers, USB hubs, small sensors	Arduino boards, Raspberry Pi, small logic circuits
9 V DC	Small consumer devices, some props	Battery-backed puzzles, legacy props
12 V DC	Mag-locks, LED strips, CCTV cameras	Main low-voltage rail in many rooms
24 V DC	Stronger mag-locks, some industrial hardware	Doors with heavy locks, long cable runs

Do not guess the voltage. Read the label on the device or the spec sheet. If it says “12 V DC” use 12 V DC. Not 9 V. Not 24 V. Pretty obvious, but this is where a surprising number of problems start.

Current and why your power supply trips

Voltage is the pressure. Current is how much is flowing. Your power supply needs to provide enough current for every device on that line, with some margin.

Example: you have

2 mag-locks at 0.5 A each
1 prop controller at 0.2 A
LED strip at 1.0 A

Total draw is 2.2 A. A good rule is to keep your load around 60 to 70 percent of the supply rating. So instead of a 2 A supply, use a 4 A unit. Your voltage will be more stable, and you reduce heat and early failures.

If your mag-lock clicks on and off or buzzes when it should be solid, your power supply is usually the first suspect, not the lock.

Understanding mag-lock behavior in escape rooms

Fail-safe vs fail-secure

Mag-locks used in escape rooms are almost always fail-safe:

Power ON: door is locked
Power OFF: door is free

That means your puzzle logic is often reversed in your head. The players “solve” the puzzle, but in the wiring, you are removing power, not adding it. That can feel backwards at first.

Electric strikes, on the other hand, can be fail-secure. They unlock when powered and lock when the power is cut. Try to standardize per room so you do not confuse yourself later.

Basic mag-lock wiring pattern

Forget props for a second. A basic mag-lock setup for an escape room looks like this:

Power supply: 12 V DC
Mag-lock: 12 V DC, 0.5 A
Relay: 1 channel or more, coil driven by your puzzle logic
Emergency release: push-to-exit button wired to cut power

The pattern:

Connect 12 V DC positive to the common (COM) terminal of the relay.
Connect the relay normally closed (NC) terminal to the positive input of the mag-lock.
Connect mag-lock negative directly to power supply negative.
Wire the relay coil side to your controller or puzzle circuit.

Why NC and not NO? Because you want the mag-lock powered (locked) when the relay is idle. When your puzzle tells the relay to switch, the NC opens, power drops, and the door unlocks.

Adding emergency release

For player safety and your peace of mind, you want a clear way to drop power to the mag-lock quickly. The usual method:

Add a push-to-exit button in series with the positive wire going to the mag-lock
Or add a separate relay tied to a master panic button that kills all mag-lock power in that zone

Every mag-lock in your venue should have a simple, obvious way to drop power fast. You will sleep better, and so will your insurance provider.

Reading device labels without getting lost

Every mag-lock, relay board, prop controller, sensor, and power supply will have some combination of tiny text and symbols. Take 30 seconds to read it before wiring anything.

Marking	What it means	Why you care
V+, V-, +, –	Power input or output polarity	Match positive and negative to avoid damage
12 V DC, 24 V DC	Rated voltage	Match your supply voltage
COM, NC, NO	Relay contact terminals	NC for mag-locks that should stay powered until release
GND	Ground / reference negative	Common reference between boards and supplies
IN1, IN2, TRIG	Trigger or input pins	Where your puzzle output connects

If a board does not have a clear diagram on it, I suggest printing the manufacturer diagram and taping it on the wall over your bench. Yes, it looks a bit old school, but it saves you from guessing at 2 am before a weekend of bookings.

Relay basics: your main bridge between puzzles and power

Why you almost always want a relay in the chain

Most prop controllers and microcontrollers produce low-power logic signals, like 5 V at a few milliamps. Your mag-lock needs 12 V at 500 milliamps or more. You do not want the controller powering the lock directly.

A relay sits in the middle and acts as a switch:

Coil side: low-power side driven by the puzzle logic
Contact side: high-power side that actually feeds the mag-lock or prop

Wiring a relay contact side for a mag-lock

A common single relay contact set has:

COM (common)
NC (normally closed)
NO (normally open)

Mag-lock pattern again:

12 V positive from power supply to COM
NC to mag-lock positive
Mag-lock negative straight to supply negative

When the relay coil is not powered, COM and NC are connected, so the lock is powered and locked. When the coil is powered, COM switches to NO, NC opens, and the lock loses power.

Driving the relay coil

This is where puzzle logic comes in. Your controller might output:

A digital high (for example 5 V) to trigger the relay
A low (connect to ground) to trigger the relay if it is active low

You match that to the relay board spec. Many hobby relay boards accept a 5 V trigger. Some can handle 12 V. Do not connect a 12 V trigger line to a 5 V relay input and assume it will be fine. It will not be, at least not for long.

Building a clean power and trigger layout

Keep power lines and signal lines separate

In escape rooms, you often have long cable runs along walls and ceilings. It is tempting to throw everything into one cable bundle. Do not.

Run high current power for mag-locks and LED strips on their own cables.
Run low voltage trigger lines and data lines separately where possible.
Use thicker wire for power (for example 18 AWG or 16 AWG) and smaller for signals.

If you run everything together in long runs, you can get interference on your trigger lines. This usually shows up as props triggering randomly or not triggering when they should.

Color coding that actually helps you later

A simple standard that works in real rooms:

Red: low voltage positive (5 V, 12 V, 24 V)
Black: low voltage negative / ground
White: trigger signals
Blue: data lines (for example RS-485, serial between controllers)

You can adjust colors based on what cable you have, but stick to one system across your venue. Your future self, and the tech who inherits the room after staff turnover, will be very grateful.

Practical mag-lock wiring example for a single door

Scenario

You have:

One 12 V mag-lock on the main exit
One puzzle controller that outputs a 5 V trigger when the final puzzle is solved
One emergency exit button that must release the door anytime it is pressed

Step-by-step wiring logic

Place a 12 V DC 3 A power supply in your tech area for the mag-lock circuit.
Wire 12 V positive to COM on a relay contact block.
Wire NC from the relay to the common terminal on the emergency button.
Wire the normally closed output of the emergency button to the mag-lock positive.
Wire mag-lock negative to power supply negative.
On the coil side, connect the relay V+ and IN to your puzzle controller as per spec, with ground shared between the controller and the 12 V supply if the relay requires it.

In normal operation:

Relay is idle, so COM to NC is closed.
Emergency button is not pressed, so its NC is closed.
Mag-lock gets 12 V and stays locked.

When the puzzle is solved:

Controller drives the relay coil.
COM to NC opens, mag-lock loses power, door releases.

When the emergency button is pressed, it cuts power no matter what the relay is doing. That is what you want.

Electronic props: safe ways to trigger physical effects

Common prop types and their wiring needs

Prop type	Typical power	Trigger method
Light and sound boxes	12 V DC or 5 V DC	Input pins, contact closure, or serial command
Motorized reveals (panels, drawers)	12 V DC, sometimes 24 V DC	Relay switching power to motor driver
Servo-driven props	5 V DC plus control signal	Microcontroller output pin
Solenoids and drop bolts	12 V DC or 24 V DC	Relay switching power

If a prop moves, pulls, or pushes, assume you should not drive it directly from the puzzle controller. Use a relay or a motor driver in between.

Designing a simple prop trigger chain

Example: a secret compartment that opens when players place three objects correctly on a shelf.

Three reed sensors or weight sensors under the objects
One puzzle controller evaluating the pattern
One 12 V motor with a small gear rack that slides the panel
One motor driver or relay switching 12 V to the motor

Wiring steps in plain language:

Power the sensors and controller from a 5 V or 12 V supply, as required.
Run sensor outputs into the controller inputs.
Have the controller output a trigger signal when all sensors read “correct”.
Feed that trigger to a relay or motor driver that connects 12 V power to the motor for a set time.
Make sure the motor has limit switches or a physical stop so it does not stall forever.

You see the pattern again: low-level logic on one side, power switching on the other.

A simple test bench that saves your weekends

Why you should never wire a fresh prop directly into a finished room

If you wire new hardware in a live room while the clock is ticking, you rush. That is when mistakes happen. Wrong polarity, shorts, miswired contacts, or badly crimped connectors show up two hours later when a full team is stuck at your final door.

Instead, keep a small test bench in your workshop:

One adjustable DC bench supply if your budget allows, or at least a few fixed 5 V / 12 V supplies
One or two standard relay boards
One simple microcontroller board with a few buttons and LEDs
Your multimeter, wire strippers, and screwdrivers

Before you install a mag-lock or a prop in a room:

Connect it on the bench with the power and relay setup you plan to use.
Simulate the puzzle trigger by pressing a button or toggling a test wire.
Check current draw and basic behavior.
Label the wires on the device before it ever goes into the wall.

If it does not work perfectly on your bench, it will not magically start working when you hide it behind plywood and paint.

Wire management that future you will not hate

Labeling that actually gets used

A lot of guides say “label your wires” and leave it there. In practice, it helps if you use a very simple naming scheme tied to your room map.

For each room, create a short code, like “RM1” for Room 1. Then for each prop or lock, give a number:

RM1-L1: first lock in Room 1
RM1-P1: first prop in Room 1
RM2-L3: third lock in Room 2

Write that code on both ends of the cable with a label or even masking tape and a marker. It is not fancy, but it works.

Terminal blocks are your friend

Instead of twisting wires together and stuffing them behind a panel, use terminal blocks or distribution blocks.

Bring all power supply lines into a central block.
From that block, fan out to each device.
Do the same with ground.

This makes it much easier to disconnect one prop for repair without touching anything else.

Common wiring mistakes in escape rooms

Wrong voltage or reversed polarity

This one is boring, but it really is the top problem.

Feeding 24 V into a 12 V device
Accidentally running AC into a DC-only mag-lock
Getting positive and negative swapped

Quick habit that helps: before you connect a new device, check the output of the power line with a multimeter and say it out loud to yourself. It feels silly, but it cuts down on mistakes.

Underpowered supplies and shared circuits

Another very common pattern: you start with one mag-lock, then add LED strips, then a prop or two, all on the same 12 V 2 A supply that came with the first device. It works well for a while, then starts to sag.

If a circuit feeds more than one device, calculate the total max current and size the supply with margin. Splitting critical locks onto their own supplies is not overkill.

Long cable runs without sizing the wire

Long runs with thin wire cause voltage drop. That means your 12 V might be 10.5 V at the far end, and some mag-locks start misbehaving at that point.

You do not have to run full calculations every time, but as a rough guide:

Keep higher current devices on thicker wire (16 or 18 AWG).
If you have to run over 20 meters, consider stepping up to 24 V and then stepping down local to the device, or use thicker cable.

Mixing grounds badly

If you have several power supplies in a room, and multiple controllers, you will hear different advice on whether to tie grounds together. I have seen both extremes cause trouble.

What helps is to choose a clear rule:

For boards talking to each other through simple trigger lines, share a common ground so they “agree” on what 0 V is.
For totally separate props that do not share signals, keep their supplies isolated.

Do not randomly tie every ground everywhere “just in case”. That can create loops and strange behavior.

Simple testing and troubleshooting routine

Use a multimeter, not just your eyes

Get a decent basic multimeter. You do not need a fancy one. Then build a habit:

Check voltage leaving the power supply under load.
Check voltage at the device terminals.
Check continuity on suspect wires with power off.

If a mag-lock is not working, split the problem in half:

Is the lock itself getting the right voltage when it should be locked?
If not, is the relay passing power? Is the emergency button connected correctly?

Work from the power supply outwards, not from the device back. It is much faster.

Log your fixes, even in short form

I know this sounds like extra work, but a tiny log goes a long way. Whenever you fix a wiring problem, write one or two lines:

“RM2-L2 power wire broke at door hinge, replaced with flexible cable.”
“RM3-P1 triggered randomly, rerouted trigger line away from mains cable.”

Next time something odd happens in that room, you have a clue where to look first.

Safety habits that keep you out of trouble

Basic rules that are non-negotiable

You do not need to be a licensed electrician to wire low voltage prop circuits, but you still have some non-negotiable limits.

Do not open or modify mains-powered devices unless you are qualified.
Use proper low voltage power supplies from known brands.
House supplies and distribution in enclosures, not open under a plywood shelf.
Keep live mains wiring separate from low voltage prop wiring.

For locks that control actual exit paths, follow local fire code. That might mean using listed hardware, emergency signage, or specific wiring methods. It is better to have that talk once with an inspector than argue about it after the fact.

Your players should never feel, see, or hear your wiring decisions. They should just feel like the room “works” every single time.

Designing with wiring in mind from day one

Mag-lock and prop planning on your room map

When you design a new room, treat wiring as part of the design, not an afterthought.

Mark every mag-lock and major prop on the floor plan.
Decide where power supplies and controller boards will live.
Draw rough cable paths that avoid doors, hinges, and high-traffic areas.

If you know a door frame will see a lot of movement, plan for flexible cable and protection there. Do not pull a rigid cable tight through the hinge area and then wonder why it fails in two months.

Standardizing components across rooms

It is tempting to grab whatever lock or relay is on sale this week. But if you can, standardize:

One or two common mag-lock models and voltages
One style of relay board wherever possible
One or two controller families for most props

That way your wiring patterns repeat. When you train a new tech, you are not teaching 15 different lock types with 15 different quirks.

Better examples of prop wiring patterns you can reuse

Example 1: Multi-step puzzle that arms a final mag-lock release

Imagine a room where players must solve three stations before the final door can open:

Station A: keypad code entry
Station B: correct arrangement of statues on pedestals
Station C: laser beam alignment puzzle

Each station has its own small controller that outputs a “completed” signal.

Wiring idea:

Run a simple “OK” line from each station back to a small master logic board or a basic AND relay module located near the final door.
Power each station locally from 12 V or 5 V as needed, but share ground back to the master board if using logic signals.
The master board checks that A, B, and C are all high, then triggers the final mag-lock relay as described earlier.
Emergency release for the door is still wired directly in series with the mag-lock power, bypassing the logic.

Benefit: each station can be tested alone, and your final mag-lock logic is very clear and central.

Example 2: Prop that needs a timed reset

Say you have a rotating bookshelf that reveals a secret door when players set books in the right sequence. After the game, you want it to auto-reset for the next team without someone yanking it by hand.

Setup:

Book sensors feeding a controller
Controller drives two relays: one for “open” motor direction, one for “close”
Limit switches at open and closed positions

Wiring pattern:

Power the motor driver or relays from a dedicated 12 V supply.
Wire the motor through a DPDT relay or an H-bridge driver that can reverse polarity.
Wire limit switches in series with each direction so power cuts when the bookshelf reaches the end of travel.
Have your controller output a “close” trigger from your GM panel after the team leaves.

Once you build this pattern once, you can reuse the same wiring idea for drawers, panels, and moving walls in other rooms.

When to push back on wiring ideas that sound clever

You asked me not to agree with everything, so let me say this directly. Some popular “clever” wiring tricks in escape rooms are actually bad ideas long term.

Backfeeding random voltages into controller inputs because “it seems to work”
Powering mag-locks from USB chargers because you have extra lying around
Using audio cables for DC power runs to save on wire cost
Hiding splices behind drywall without any enclosure

These can work short term, but they fail in the worst way: not right away, but Saturday at 7 pm. Spend a little more on the proper supply, relay, or connector now. Your staff time and player experience are worth more than the small savings.

If a wiring plan sounds too “hacky” even to you, you are probably right to question it.